Luke Shaffer
Binoculars are an essential piece of gear for any hunter. Whether it’s counting points on a buck, or trying to see those gobblers come around the bend, that zoomed in view is critical not only to the success of your hunt, but sometimes to the legality of your hunt! But man oh man, do those binos get heavy on that neck strap. Solution: binocular chest harness.
When’s the last time you priced a chest harness for your binoculars? “What a great deal!” is not the phrase you would use. At least, that is not the phrase I used. I do understand that a lot of research and testing goes into developing these things. And I get that the materials and work cost money. And be believe me, I know they’re just trying to make a buck. But $200? It’s canvas and nylon and some plastic pieces, for cryin’ out loud.
So I looked a dozen or so harnesses and thought, “I bet I can DIY the hell out of that thing!” And I did. Here’s what you need:
- Pouch large enough to fit your binoculars
- 1″ nylon strap
- Pack of tri-glides and buckles
- 3″ x 3″ leather patch; top two corners cut at an angle; 1″ slits cut for straps (one on each angle; four parallel to each other across the bottom)
- Scissors
- Lighter – to tighten off the frays
The unique materials on this list can be found on an Amazon list we have put together here:
First, measure and cut the strap that’s going to go around your chest. Burn the ends to keep them from fraying. Run one end of the strap under, over, and under the tri-glide. Leave enough tag to make loop. Run the tag back under, over, and under the tri-glide to secure the strap. This strap will connect to one side of the pouch.
Working from the other end of that strap, run the tag under, over, and under the tri-glide, leaving about 8″. With that tag end, run it over, under, and back through the buckle insert; then back under, over, and under the tri-glide to secure it. The buckle will connect this strap to a small strap on the other side of the pouch.
Cut about a 10″ length of strap. Burn ends to keep from fraying. Run one tag end under, over, and under the tri-glide, leaving a loop. Then run back under-over, and under the tri-glide to secure. On the other end, run under, over, and under the tri-glide. Then over, under, and back through the buckle. Then go back under, over, and under the tri-glide to secure. This small piece of strap will connect the chest strap to the pouch on the other side.
Cut two equal straps for the shoulder straps – around 16″ each, but measure over your own shoulders + extra for looping through tri-glides – burn ends. Run tags under, over, and under tri-glides, leaving loops, then back under, over, and under tri-glides to secure on all four ends. One end of each strap will connect to the leather pouch. The other end of each strap will connect to the pouch itself.
Un-secure one shoulder strap loop, run tag through a slit in the leather patch, then back under, over, and under the tri-glide to re-secure. Repeat on the second should strap. Un-secure the loop on the long chest strap, run tag through the slits in the leather patch, then back under, over, and under the tri-glide to re-secure.
Un-secure the other end of the shoulder strap, loop around the horizontal PALS (Pouch Attachment Ladder System) webbing on the back of the strap, then back under, over, and under the tri-glide to re-secure strap. Repeat with the other shoulder strap. Unbutton the vertical PALS straps, run the short buckle strap loop end through one side, and the long chest strap loop through the other side.
BOOM. Ya gone and done it! I’ll test the harness out like this for this season. I may end up going back and doing some sewing on the tri-glide ends that don’t need to be adjustable, but if this sucker works like this, then we’re all good! I’ve strapped it on with the binoculars in it and walked around the house and it works great!
I’ll end up adding some rings or clips to the bino, and adding securing straps from that to the pouch itself, in case I miss the pouch while trying to put them back home. So I’ll update soon!
